Tuesday, May 27, 2008
If you made it yourself from the plans given in document “D17”, follow the tuning and installation instructions in that document.
“D17” or actually D17.PDF, is number 17 in Patrick Kelly's free energy collection of patents and plans. It's title is “Dealing With The Vehicle Computer”.
It is available on the Internet: search Google for “Dealing With The Vehicle Computer” including the quote marks.
I built one but decided not to mass produce it. If you want to build one but cannot find the document, please email me. Bill Lang found that in China they would make it for you for $3 apiece if only you'd order 1000 pieces. So if $3,000 sounds like a good business investment, go for it. It's definitely in very high demand, and rising!
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Monday, May 26, 2008
Warmly recommended: clean the existing PCV valve in thinner, or replace it with a new one.
Locate the PCV Valve if you haven't done it so far. Wikipedia says regarding possible locations: “The PCV valve connects the crankcase to the intake manifold from a location more-or-less opposite the breather connection. Typical locations include the opposite valve cover that the breather tube connects to on a V-engine. A typical location is the valve cover(s), although some engines place the valve in locations far from the valve cover.”
Your car's maintenance manual (find it at your the auto parts store) tells you right away where each major part is located. Usually be the first couple pages in the engine-related book. Another source is www.AutoZone.com – click “Repair Info” and then select “Components Location”.
Under the hood, choose an easy to reach space for the PCV Enhancer. The device itself needs only a small space - but remember that you'll need access to check the contamination level and also be able to reach it with your hand for cleaning.
The best position would be below the level of the intake manifold (to enable water to sink into the device after the engine has stopped, rather than dripping back into the engine). Due to its plastic parts it is also recommended to keep the PCV Enhancer away from engine heat as much as possible, but no more than 2 feet away.
I chose a location at the of level of the PCV and easily accessible from the side of the car, near the brake drum.
If you want to, and if there is something in the vicinity to hang on to, you can add brackets to the PCV Enhancer (use the 4 threads at the upper body of the PCV Enhancer, they look like they'll take standard 1/8” screws). Then install those brackets to the car. If not, attach the device using bungee cords. To protect the device it can be positioned into a plastic can and/or padded with durable foam.
Disconnect the hose attached to the PCV Valve. Make sure you understand where the air flow is going in the system (start the engine for a second and see for yourself if you're not sure). This is important because the PCV Enhancer has a certain AIRFLOW DIRECTION even though it may seem symmetrical at first look.
Connect the OUTPUT of the PCV Enhancer [the black filter housing is embossed with clear IN and OUT markings] to the intake manifold port for the PCV Valve, as shown in the picture below. Use 3/8” hose. You can use the original hose if it can reach the location of the enhancer.
IMPORTANT: The hoses should not have any low spots that might collect water (since this water will freeze in cold weather and block the PCV system). Any liquid that may accumulate in the in or out hoses should be free to run into the enhancer when the engine is shut off.
Inspect the installation visually. Make sure all hoses are secured with clamps. Make sure the filter bowl (the transparent part) is tight – hand tight only!
Add a cap at the bottom opening on the PCV Enhancer. Closing the valve will not actually close it because the Husky filter was designed for POSITIVE pressure and will stay open under vacuum. The cap can be any ¼ cap, even as simple as a piece of hose with a bolt tightly screwed into it.
Start the engine and check the system by observing the transparent filter bowl. You should be able to see condensation – this is an indication that the system is working.
It is advisable to protect this device by placing it into a plastic bowl or bottle.
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This is very easy example to explain that hydrogen gas is flamable and explore as well. On this video shows how to explore hydrogen gas.
1.Insert the wire that you are adding, the new wire (red shown but it could be either the red or black) into the rear slot of the splice connector. Note that it will only fit from the right hand side when the connector is positioned as shown:2. Insert the wire you wish to splice to (brown wire shown for example) into the front slot of the connector as shown:
3. Using pliers press the metal connector onto the wires. This will cut through the insulation of both wires and make a firm electrical connection between them, all in one action:
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The alternator does not "require" energy to turn. It produces energy based on the energy applied to it. Therefore it "requires" energy to produce energy. It sounds as though you are making the "No Free Energy" argument. Which has its merits. But, this is a maximum efficiency of energy situation, similar to a rope and tackle system. Solar Energy is as close to Free as we will get in the near term.
As shown in the vacuum diagram above, vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to various car systems, and you should best use the system (“System X” in the diagram) that gets the highest vacuum. The idea is to suck the HHO into a place such as the carburetor or the intake manifold, where it can be automatically mixed with the existing fuel/air mixture.
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The U.S. Department of Transportation reports the average life span of a vehicle is 12 years. This gives you that the potential saving for EACH CAR over its life span is $15,072.
And what if you have a fleet of 50 drivers in your company? Then your savings per car will multiply to $753,600.
What can you do with $753,600 in free cash?
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If you have several boats in your marine club, or if you are the fleet manager responsible for the economics of many trucks or transportation vans, then you know exactly what I'm talking about...
The list below describes the TYPICAL kit, which means it is the list recommended by Water4Gas based on our experience and the numerous feedbacks we have received so far. But when you build one, or shop for one, there could be differences depending on who made them and where. The typical kit comprises the following:
Two quart-size highly durable glass jars (durable plastic option will be given later). We’ve never seen any of these jars break or crack, in thousands of miles of day-to-day road tests. (There were two incidents that the U.S. Postal Service broke jars even though they were marked “Fragile” and wrapped well, so give them an extra good wrap before shipping.)
Converted jar lid (made of durable white plastic) with electrodes, valves, wiring terminals, etc. This is a very unique design, with SPIRALED electrodes rather than flat ones. Due to the magnetic forces created by the spirals, this design produces MORE HHO - for LESS current drawn out of the car's battery. This is your Electrolyzer.
Another converted jar lid (metallic or plastic) that makes your Vaporizer.
MAP Sensor Enhancer – a must have for great fuel economy.
Fuel Heater: pre-heats your gasoline for better gas economy, a great companion to your Hydrogen-On-Demand system.
PCV Enhancer: another companion to your Hydrogen-On-Demand system that improves the PCV function, protects your engine and saves gas.
Fuse holder + installation wiring with ready-to-hook-terminals. Plus quick splice connectors for easy electrical installation. Plus flex protective tubing.
Vacuum line T-connector. Helps you hook up the Electrolyzer or Vaporizer to the Intake Manifold of the car.
Two vacuum line hoses, 3.5 feet each. (DO NOT CUT THOSE ANY SHORTER, IT'S ONE OF THE SAFETY FEATURES IN THE SYSTEM!)
Installation hardware: Bungee cords and cable straps.
Catalyst (sometimes called “Electrolyte” but actually the electrolyte is the correct term for the catalyst PLUS water) – this is the very SAFE household Baking Soda: the typical kit should have a bag of catalyst to get you started. It completes the kit to be ‘Just Add Water.’ The electrolyte is what helps the electricity separate water into HHO. Distilled water alone does not conduct electricity so nothing would happen without this Electrolyte.
The typical bag is 3.8 oz and is enough for 6-10 months of normal driving, and more can be obtained cheaply at almost any grocery store in the world.
For full installation instructions you need to download a ebook
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Very little. If you use water only (vaporizing the water by slow bubbling it and then sucking it into the engine), a Gallon of water would be consumed in about 8 months. If you're using electrolysis to separate it to HHO first, that Gallon will be consumed in maybe 3-4 months. Still very little. You save roughly $900-$1,200 a year on gasoline alone (not to mention maintenance savings) with a monthly investment of about 5-30 cents. So if you want to talk absolutes, this is not 100% free, but you'll agree with me that we're creating a LOT of effect out of very, very little. It reminds of an old story my father used to tell me about this guy who tried to turn sand into gold...well he still needed the sand, didn't he?
This is water into gold! Not in the future but today - with home made technology.
- Water “conceals” a lot of energy inside. Let's examine how much.
- Compared to the energy of one pound of gasoline (let's call it 100%), the energy in a pound of Hydrogen is only 80% - while Brown's Gas of the same weight has a whopping 300% of the energy!
- When separating it into its Brown's Gas state, each Gallon of water expands into gigantic proportions – 1866 Gallons of combustible gas! That's why so much effect on the engine, while such little water is being consumed per week.
The device shown to the right is called HHO Water4Gas because it separates each water particle (molecule) into a different arrangement: two “H” for Hydrogen, bonded together, plus one “O” for Oxygen. This combination, in its gaseous state, is called HHO. Also also called Rhodes' Gas or Brown’s Gas after its famous researchers, William A Rhodes and Professor Yull Brown. HHO burns beautifully and provides TONS of energy. The device uses little electricity and very little water….
The H2O Water4Gas device (“Vaporizer”) shown to the left is a technology some 85 years old - we have official US patents from the 1920’s describing this technology as the common knowledge of those days! The device simply adds water vapor to the normal mixture of gasoline and air, and has most of the benefits of its bigger brother, the HHO device.Some say it has its origins in the fog of WW II, where it is said to have been used on U.S. aircrafts during that war. One story has it that as pilots flew their aircraft close to the surface of the water, they noticed a dramatic increase in the power and performance of their engines. For reasons that remain obscure, this technology has never reached the public.
What we have done is researched today’s technology and SIMPLIFIED the technology using readily available parts and materials, to bring you devices that are both very simple, very affordable and at the same time very POWERFUL. Our development also makes it easy for you to use, maintain and even duplicate our Water4Gas technology if you choose to.
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When I was a child, my father was always telling me how impossible it was to get energy out of nothing. He was right - it's impossible to get it out of nothing - but the scientists "forgot" to tell him that water is not "nothing" WATER IS A VERY POWERFUL FUEL. All you need is the right "match" to ignite it and...BANG!
Wait a minute! If you're thinking now "if water - when converted to gas - is explosive, isn't it dangerous?" NO, IT IS DANGEROUS, due to several factors that you will see in a minute. I've been driving with it every day for almost 2 years and have 100's of other drivers using Water for Gas technology in very hot and very cold climates - it is totally SAFE. If it wasn't safe, Water for Gas would be out of business before the end of the day. The way we release water energy is very safe and it will be ignited only by the strong spark inside your engine!
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