PCV ENHANCER INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Warmly recommended: clean the existing PCV valve in thinner, or replace it with a new one.

Locate the PCV Valve if you haven't done it so far. Wikipedia says regarding possible locations: “The PCV valve connects the crankcase to the intake manifold from a location more-or-less opposite the breather connection. Typical locations include the opposite valve cover that the breather tube connects to on a V-engine. A typical location is the valve cover(s), although some engines place the valve in locations far from the valve cover.”

Your car's maintenance manual (find it at your the auto parts store) tells you right away where each major part is located. Usually be the first couple pages in the engine-related book. Another source is www.AutoZone.com – click “Repair Info” and then select “Components Location”.

Under the hood, choose an easy to reach space for the PCV Enhancer. The device itself needs only a small space - but remember that you'll need access to check the contamination level and also be able to reach it with your hand for cleaning.

The best position would be below the level of the intake manifold (to enable water to sink into the device after the engine has stopped, rather than dripping back into the engine). Due to its plastic parts it is also recommended to keep the PCV Enhancer away from engine heat as much as possible, but no more than 2 feet away.

I chose a location at the of level of the PCV and easily accessible from the side of the car, near the brake drum.

If you want to, and if there is something in the vicinity to hang on to, you can add brackets to the PCV Enhancer (use the 4 threads at the upper body of the PCV Enhancer, they look like they'll take standard 1/8” screws). Then install those brackets to the car. If not, attach the device using bungee cords. To protect the device it can be positioned into a plastic can and/or padded with durable foam.

Disconnect the hose attached to the PCV Valve. Make sure you understand where the air flow is going in the system (start the engine for a second and see for yourself if you're not sure). This is important because the PCV Enhancer has a certain AIRFLOW DIRECTION even though it may seem symmetrical at first look.

Connect the OUTPUT of the PCV Enhancer [the black filter housing is embossed with clear IN and OUT markings] to the intake manifold port for the PCV Valve, as shown in the picture below. Use 3/8” hose. You can use the original hose if it can reach the location of the enhancer.

IMPORTANT: The hoses should not have any low spots that might collect water (since this water will freeze in cold weather and block the PCV system). Any liquid that may accumulate in the in or out hoses should be free to run into the enhancer when the engine is shut off.

Inspect the installation visually. Make sure all hoses are secured with clamps. Make sure the filter bowl (the transparent part) is tight – hand tight only!

Add a cap at the bottom opening on the PCV Enhancer. Closing the valve will not actually close it because the Husky filter was designed for POSITIVE pressure and will stay open under vacuum. The cap can be any ¼ cap, even as simple as a piece of hose with a bolt tightly screwed into it.

Start the engine and check the system by observing the transparent filter bowl. You should be able to see condensation – this is an indication that the system is working.

It is advisable to protect this device by placing it into a plastic bowl or bottle.

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Water4Gas Type Spiral Electrode HHO System

The alternator does not "require" energy to turn. It produces energy based on the energy applied to it. Therefore it "requires" energy to produce energy. It sounds as though you are making the "No Free Energy" argument. Which has its merits. But, this is a maximum efficiency of energy situation, similar to a rope and tackle system. Solar Energy is as close to Free as we will get in the near term.

VACUUM CONNECTION

As shown in the vacuum diagram above, vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to various car systems, and you should best use the system (“System X” in the diagram) that gets the highest vacuum. The idea is to suck the HHO into a place such as the carburetor or the intake manifold, where it can be automatically mixed with the existing fuel/air mixture.

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WHAT’S IN THE TYPICAL KIT

The list below describes the TYPICAL kit, which means it is the list recommended by Water4Gas based on our experience and the numerous feedbacks we have received so far. But when you build one, or shop for one, there could be differences depending on who made them and where. The typical kit comprises the following:

Two quart-size highly durable glass jars (durable plastic option will be given later). We’ve never seen any of these jars break or crack, in thousands of miles of day-to-day road tests. (There were two incidents that the U.S. Postal Service broke jars even though they were marked “Fragile” and wrapped well, so give them an extra good wrap before shipping.)

Converted jar lid (made of durable white plastic) with electrodes, valves, wiring terminals, etc. This is a very unique design, with SPIRALED electrodes rather than flat ones. Due to the magnetic forces created by the spirals, this design produces MORE HHO - for LESS current drawn out of the car's battery. This is your Electrolyzer.

Another converted jar lid (metallic or plastic) that makes your Vaporizer.

MAP Sensor Enhancer – a must have for great fuel economy.

Fuel Heater: pre-heats your gasoline for better gas economy, a great companion to your Hydrogen-On-Demand system.

PCV Enhancer: another companion to your Hydrogen-On-Demand system that improves the PCV function, protects your engine and saves gas.

Fuse holder + installation wiring with ready-to-hook-terminals. Plus quick splice connectors for easy electrical installation. Plus flex protective tubing.

Vacuum line T-connector. Helps you hook up the Electrolyzer or Vaporizer to the Intake Manifold of the car.

Two vacuum line hoses, 3.5 feet each. (DO NOT CUT THOSE ANY SHORTER, IT'S ONE OF THE SAFETY FEATURES IN THE SYSTEM!)

Installation hardware: Bungee cords and cable straps.

Catalyst (sometimes called “Electrolyte” but actually the electrolyte is the correct term for the catalyst PLUS water) – this is the very SAFE household Baking Soda: the typical kit should have a bag of catalyst to get you started. It completes the kit to be ‘Just Add Water.’ The electrolyte is what helps the electricity separate water into HHO. Distilled water alone does not conduct electricity so nothing would happen without this Electrolyte.

The typical bag is 3.8 oz and is enough for 6-10 months of normal driving, and more can be obtained cheaply at almost any grocery store in the world.


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